Why Monty Don Recommends Planting Shrubs Instead of Seeds in March

Spring is knocking, seed racks are overflowing – yet a famous TV gardener recommends choosing something entirely different right now.

While amateur gardeners often enjoy trying new varieties in March and bringing home packet after packet of seeds, Monty Don takes a far more long-term approach. This month, his focus is not on instant floral colour but on a woody plant that will shape and steady the garden for many years.

Why Monty Don chooses shrubs over seeds in March

On British television, Monty Don has long been seen as a sensible voice for anyone seeking more than colourful beds for one summer. In March, as the ground gradually thaws and daylight noticeably increases, his strategy is straightforward: plant a shrub that will remain.

“A single well-placed shrub can provide structure, privacy and flowers for years – without having to start again annually.”

Where seeds generally fill just one season, Don regards shrubs as the “backbone” of a garden. They divide spaces, edge borders, guide the eye and form a lasting backdrop for perennials, bulbs and annuals. For him, March is the point when the soil and weather make establishment easier without putting young plants under pressure.

The key reasons, in his view, are:

• The ground is no longer deeply frozen, while still holding sufficient moisture.
• Light levels and warmth are increasing without immediately stressing the plant.
• Fresh roots can spread calmly before the foliage really begins to develop.
• A shrub continues growing year after year rather than disappearing after one season.

The ideal time: what happens below ground in March

From a botanical perspective, plenty is happening beneath the surface in March. Primroses, fruit trees and many perennials are already beginning to grow. Soil temperatures rise slightly, microorganisms become active and roots can access nutrients more easily. Monty Don plants his shrubs into precisely this period of “awakening”.

For him, the benefit is that the plant is not yet directing all its energy into leaf growth, instead concentrating first on making roots. This builds a strong foundation that copes better with dry summers and reduces frost damage the following winter.

Why Monty Don prefers bare-root shrubs

Don is particularly keen on what are known as bare-root shrubs. Sold without pots or compost, they are lifted directly from the field. In March, the soil remains cool and damp – ideal conditions for exposed roots to quickly connect with the surrounding earth.

Bare-root plants offer several advantages:

• They are often less expensive than container-grown plants.
• Their roots can spread more freely and widely through the soil.
• There are no “root spirals”, which can sometimes develop in pots.
• The choice of hardy varieties is often broader.

So, if you are already considering new screening, a flowering hedge or a striking focal point, now is an excellent time to plant – before garden centres fully switch into their summer bedding season.

How Monty Don plants shrubs in March, step by step

The TV gardener does not leave the planting itself to chance. His method is simple, but each stage has a clear purpose. Preparing the soil is especially important to him.

Prepare the soil: think wide, not deep

First, he thoroughly removes all perennial root weeds. Thistles, couch grass, ground elder and similar weeds should have no opportunity to regrow directly within the new shrub’s root zone.

He then uses a spade to make a wide but relatively shallow planting hole, around 20 to 25 centimetres deep. The ground underneath is loosened slightly, without creating a narrow, deep pit.

“The aim is for roots to venture sideways into the existing soil, rather than ‘sitting’ in a comfortable but confined pocket of compost.”

He deliberately avoids adding extra compost or soil conditioner to the planting hole. The shrub should learn to grow in the real garden soil, rather than on an artificially enriched island.

Mycorrhiza, planting depth and watering

Optionally, Don dusts the exposed roots with mycorrhizal fungi. These form a type of symbiosis with the plant, increasing the effective root surface area. This helps the shrub reach water and nutrients more quickly.

He considers the correct planting height crucial: the shrub should sit slightly above the surrounding soil level, never too deep. When firming it in, he forms a gentle cone so that water can slowly drain towards the centre.

Once planted, it should be watered generously to close air pockets and ensure good contact between roots and soil. Only then does he apply good compost – as a mulch on the surface, not beneath the plant in the hole.

Shrubs worth planting for years

Monty Don repeatedly stresses that planting a shrub means planning for years, not weeks. Choosing well is therefore all the more important. A number of classics appear in British gardens almost everywhere because they are tough and highly versatile.

Shrub	Benefits	Suitable position
Hydrangeas	Large flower heads, impressive autumn colour, well suited to partially shaded positions	Partial shade, humus-rich soil, even moisture
Shrub roses	Long flowering period, fragrance, wide choice of varieties	Sun, free-draining soil, not too nutrient-poor
Viburnum	Early or late flowers depending on species, often scented, winter structure	Sun to partial shade, ordinary garden soil
Mock orange (Philadelphus)	Intensely scented white flowers in early summer, easy to maintain	Sun to partial shade, tolerates some dryness

Many of these species stay compact, respond well to pruning and suit even smaller terraced-house gardens. One well-positioned shrub can alter the character of an entire plot – as a flowering feature at the entrance, for example, or as a calm backdrop to a perennial border.

How one shrub can transform the whole garden

If time or money is limited, there is no need to plant an entire hedge at once. Don encourages gardeners to select and plant just one shrub thoughtfully in March. The long-term effect is often greater than beginners expect.

Possible effects include:

• New screening from neighbours or the road provides greater privacy.
• Scented shrubs beside a seating area make summer time outdoors more enjoyable.
• Flowering shrubs offer food for bees, bumblebees and butterflies.
• Birds use dense branches for nesting and shelter.

Over the years, such a woody plant becomes a “fixed point” around which further planting can develop logically. Perennials can lean into it, paths can lead towards it and seating areas can be arranged around it – creating a natural structure rather than a patchwork effect.

Common mistakes when planting shrubs in spring

Many shrub problems are caused not by the variety itself, but by small errors during planting. Following Monty Don’s advice helps avoid several of the most frequent pitfalls:

• Planting too deeply: Shrubs that are “buried” are more likely to rot at the base.
• Putting compost in the planting hole: Roots remain in the luxury zone and barely grow into the surrounding soil.
• Ignoring root weeds: Ground elder or couch grass can quickly smother young shrubs.
• Watering inconsistently in the first year: Newly planted woody plants dry out more quickly than many people realise.

Instead, a shallow, wide planting hole, good soil contact and a protective mulch layer provide the basis for decades with the same shrub.

What amateur gardeners can take from this for their own borders

Although Monty Don mainly talks about British gardens, his recommendation can easily be applied in German-speaking regions. Many areas experience similar conditions in March: changeable weather, but soil that is slowly thawing and still retains enough residual moisture.

Anyone already making planting plans can deliberately redirect part of the seed budget towards a long-lasting woody plant. Garden newcomers in particular benefit when they do not have to begin from scratch every year, because some permanent structure remains in place.

Shrubs also lend themselves well to experimenting with shape. Over several years, they can be gently guided in one direction, kept more compact through pruning or allowed to grow more loosely. Over time, this creates a personal garden character rather than simply a random collection of pots and seasonal plants.

In the long run, this way of thinking pays off in several respects: less work replanting each year, more stable habitats for wildlife, a garden that still has presence in winter and, ultimately, a much more valuable-looking plot overall. So, when you reach the till at the garden centre in March, it is worth asking: perhaps one shrub that stays is enough this year, instead of five packets that disappear again after one summer?